Early in our dinner Fallow at London’s Haymarket, a waiter delivered a mushroom parfait to our table. He then pointed up at a shelf suspended from the ceiling that had logs on it. He explained that they grew some of the mushrooms for this dish right there at the restaurant. In spite of the loudly proclaimed commitment to sustainability, this could be intrusive signaling if it weren’t for one thing: The mushroom parfait was astonishing. The intense mix of oyster and shitake was as smooth as velvet touched in just the right way. It would always surprise me that dairy is involved because eggs were separated to make different parts of the dish- yolks for the fat and whisked whites for the aeration.
It is a great luxury item to eat but also, I think, can moisturize your face. It’s more expensive than Kiehl’s Facial Fuel, though. I like to think that Fallow Mushrooms’ £17 price is partially for research and development costs similar to a new drug. For the Fallow price, it makes me feel better about the world. So no, Fallow is not cheap but it certainly deserves its “Gosh” “Wow” and “Oh my!”
Two chefs met at Dinner by Heston, and before their dinner, the best I’d had of them was Blumenthal’s meat fruit – but this was better (and cheaper). They found that they were on the same page, wanting to elevate the humble ingredients most people would throw away. With a pop-up it eventually led to this site – there are marble counters and bundles of kelp from the ceiling – where flames leap in the kitchen.
The restaurant reminds me of how many New York restaurants which reject the formal, delicate formality and cooking ability that usually supports high-quality ingredients. The chefs cook food for their customers themselves and knowledgeable waiters deliver it.
The restaurant is known for some of its appetizers, like the fried corn cobs that are coated with a seasonings mix. The ribs have also been described as addictive.
There is a dish called tartiflette that consists of a sheet of crispy bread topped with cheese, onions, cornichons and potatoes. In addition to this dish there are some other bread dishes with crab, jerusalem artichoke and a spicy broth.
A new food outlet, The Butty Shop, with traditional sandwiches as the main entree will be opening soon. New Century Hall is a revamped building in Manchester, and it has its own social destination with memories of childhood visits to bakeries. Pickled eggs will be on the menu at The Butty Shop.
